PARIS
I’ve been to Paris a few times now, with the first visit in 2010 when Spencer was a summer student at CERN. Spencer had an opportunity to collaborate at Ecole Polytechnique (just outside Paris) for 2 months this last spring and I was thrilled about it. We got to hang out with friends who live there and visited, meet new friends, host family, visit sites, and EAT. April and May involved a lot of social time and I was so for it. I made a list of places to go for my brothers and their wives and figured I’d also start my travel posts with this already curated example. Shout out to Matt, Sally & Braydon who introduced us to a number of spots on the restaurant list! I’m sure I forgot spots. Reach out if you think I’m missing something!
Food & Coffee & Drinks:
Septime (google maps) fancy tasting menu tailored
Septime La Cave (google maps) wine bar sister of ^
Clamato (google maps) sister restaurant, focused on seafood. AMAZING FOOD and ambiance.
Pro tip: go when they open and put in your name, then go get beers at Les Cuves de Fauve while you wait to be called
Les Cuves de Fauve (google maps)
Le Servan (google maps)
AMAZING food. Low key. Get dessert.
Brutos (google maps)
Roast chicken on Sundays
L’Avant Comptoir de la Terre (google maps)
Hands down best bread and butter. This is the spot that has the butter cake if you saw me post pictures of it. IT’S SO GOOD.
It’s a wine bar with small plates
There are actually a bunch of veggie options, both with lots of cheese and general veg. The bartenders speak english and can help. The chalkboard in the back usually has the veggie specials.
The menu is on cards on the ceiling, so a little tough, but adds to the ambiance
There are two sides to the restaurant: la terre and la mer - the land and the sea. You can guess themes of each. Both sides have veg options.
I never choose my own wine, just ask for the rec of the bartender
Pierre Sang (google maps)
Surprise tasting menu (they ask about allergies/preferences first)
My sister Sera and I accidentally ate here. We thought it was a low key cafe and just walked in, lucking out that they had a table free, and we were *just* in time for their next timed tasting menu! Score! Super good and surprising combinations.
Farmers market at Bastille in the morning (walk through Marais)
Get stuff for a picnic and then go to LVF. Eat in the park before or after (if after, leave the food/bags in coat check!)
The French Bastards bakery (google maps)
Fave croissant in Paris
Marché des Enfants Rouges (google maps)
Market with amazing food. Get the crazy crepe! Worth the line!
IMA Cantine (google maps)
Awesome delicious veggie food. The neighborhood around here is fun, too.
Du Pain et des Idées (google maps)
Get the snail! Multiple snails! So good!
Telescope (google maps)
Great coffee
Amazing scrambled eggs. I was surprised. There is “creme crue” on top… basically a dollop of butter. And So. Good.
Restaurant Massale (google maps)
Museums
Pompidou -- fun, modern. BIG! It’ll wear you out. And then you’ll be Pompi-done.
Orangerie -- small, focused on Monet’s lilies upstairs and a small gallery in the basement. You can combine this with another museum in the same day, maybe Musee d’Orsay.
d’Orsay -- great exhibits, first time I saw Van Gogh’s work up close. It was my fave Paris museum until…
Louis Vuitton Foundation -- building designed by Frank Gehry and situated in a big park next to a zoo. It’s not as central, but the building itself is reason to go. Bonus that the exhibits are so good! I loved bringing a picnic for after the museum, leaving the bags with food in the coat check.
Louvre -- go when not crowded, else it’s too overwhelming.
What to see & do
Eiffel Tour, picnic underneath in the grass
Le Marais for window (or actual) shopping & picnic or just share a bottle of wine in Place de Vosges (so cute)
Museums (see separate section)
Drink coffee and enjoy the fountains in Jardin Palais Royale (coffee at Kitsune)
Play petanque by the canal
Oberkampf
Where to stay
3-4 -- le Marais
11 -- Bastille
Oberkampf
Shopping
Le Marais
Bastille
Near the canal
Get classic Breton striped shirts/sweaters at Saint James (like Alex, Kaman, Spencer and Kathleen! And Michael and Carina!)